Here’s the deal with pétillant naturel wine, or pet-nat as it’s called on the quick. All wine goes through fermentation and creates CO2 gas. Usually this burns off into the air, but in sparkling wines they cap it to keep the bubbles in the bottle. Pét-nat lets the natural yeast on the grapes kick off the fermentation, and then transfers the unfinished, still-fermenting wine into bottles.

It’s a very old, very casual way of making wine (this one, like most, are just donned with a crown cap instead of the cork, cage, and foil found on most sparkling wines). Right now it’s very hip and trendy, but this Onward one pays off in summery spades.

Made from Pinot Noir, it’s a total explosion of raspberries and strawberry jam. The bubbles are super fine and softly fizzy. The winemaker describes it as “very alive…a unique combination of youth and complexity.” I’d add “completely delicious.”

$30 here